Nisen Sushi
7967 Jericho Tpke.
Woodbury
516-496-7000
www.nisensushi.com
3 Stars
A screen displays a martial arts film outside the newest branch of Nisen Sushi, which inhabits a larger-than-expected storefront in the upscale Woodbury Village shopping center. Inside, modern culinary arts are also displayed.
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The truly gorgeous interior-a fortune was spent transforming the place into a sleek, Asian space-age space-is an integral part of the experience.
It’s one big adventure: Airy, ambient music, turned up as the Saturday-night crowd thickens. Towering burgundy banquets line one wall under slate panels. A backlit bar and massive glass chandelier, changing color as day becomes night, holds sway over lounges for drinking and nibbling. An extended sushi bar anchors the dining room. Fabric-covered archways divide the rooms.
The black-clad staff swarms, melting into corners like tennis match ball boys, poised to sweep plates and crumbs off tables.
A large sake bottle collection near the entrance leads us to a sake menu that continues for pages. All are served cold except for the typical house sake, served in the usual porcelain bottle. We opt for a half bottle of Shirakabe ($15), a more modestly priced choice. It is presented like wine and a taste is poured into large, shot-like glasses. Cool, smooth and refreshing.
The scene is unmistakably cosmopolitan, unlike any on LI, including the Commack original. The all-star kitchen team includes executive chef Kent Monkan (Heirloom, Panama Hattie’s) and executive sushi chef Osan Weng (Megu), guaranteeing a memorable and satisfying meal.
We began with an appetizer unusual for a sushi-anchored menu: Eggplant Truffle Casserole ($14), not a true casserole, but layered eggplant and Buffalo mozzarella slices immersed in white truffle oil that brought the dish together. I ordered an entrée and my wife formed her main meal from two choices from the Chef’s Special Rolls. Miso Cured Black Cod ($28), ubiquitous and trendy, is melt-away wonderful, its sweet sauce tempered by honshimiji mushrooms and shredded ginger-just not as large a portion as I could have handled.
The rolls, served on foot-long, boat-shaped platters, were unique. Chocolate Beef ($16) is less sweet than expected; the chocolate sauce is sparingly employed, not overpowering the seared tenderloin wrapped with leeks and asparagus. Crispy Duck Confit ($16), minced and rolled up in wonton and helped by orange fennel emulsion, is another special fusion.
Alas, when we were offered the dessert menu, we were still hungry for fish. Requisitioning the main menu, we opted for the Mango Hawaii Roll ($15), the perfect meal ending, with sweet mango slices draping a salmon, avocado and mango sauce. We finished with pretty decent Pineapple Upside Down Cake ($11).
Later that week, I positioned myself at the sushi bar for a Sashimi lunch ($15), wanting the raw deal, as it were. I was seated before a very violent martial arts picture. I felt like “Grouchy Diner, Hidden Critic,” observing fighters getting their bloodied heads punched in, in hi-def.
My 15-piece platter of extremely fresh sashimi came with good Miso soup and an even better salad. Large swaths of dark tuna, salmon, white striped bass and splendid horse mackerel, aka Aji, made me forget the film. I then noticed the paper wrapper from the chopsticks. It read: Recognized for Excellence by ZagatSurvey, Newsday and The New York Times. One day I hope to get a mention on a chopstick wrapper.
