Brasserie Cassis
387 S. Oyster Bay Rd.
Plainview
516-653-0090
3 Stars
The folks who bring you Brasserie Cassis, as well as Bistro Cassis and Bistro Citron, have the French formule down to a science. However, this time, instead of transforming already quaint locations in the midst of appealing downtowns (Huntington, Roslyn), they’ve gambled a bit and worked their magique in a Plainview shopping center storefront. But when you enter, you’re momentarily transported out of Plainview and into a dining scene evocative of a time and place 100 years ago and a continent away.
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Majestically globed chandeliers, a long mirrored bar, dark wood-paneled walls and wide-planked floors do the trick. The rest of the simple formula adds up to casually accessible French food, at accessible prices.
They like branding-folding paper menus as napkin rings, serving ramekins of butter and pâté covered with logo-imprinted paper, and plates emblazed with “Cassis,” should you forget where you are.
Each time we visit, my wife and I are seated at one of the two-tops that line the back left wall.
Unfortunately, it is too close to neighbors, but is good for observing behavior and overhearing exchanges. For example, one less-than-happy husband balked at the close quarters. Or was it just my hearing?
We chose a good half bottle of wine and noticed the couple on the left taking advantage of the state law allowing diners to recork an unfinished bottle and take it home in a sack. Another romantic couple settled in at the back table and remained there, smooching between bites, his arm around her, trying to eat with one hand. Did he order a one-handed meal, like Ahi Tuna, I wondered?
Warm French bread is delivered and redelivered throughout the meal and service is trained, friendly and snappy. Harengs à l’Huile ($9), marinated herring with chunks of white potatoes and shards of onions, is an easy starter to whet the appetite. Salade Cassis ($8) is a good basic choice, properly dressed in balsamic with its tomatoes and greens sparked by the addition of pumpkin seeds. Also impressive are Gateau de Crabe ($13), or crab cake-well seasoned, meaty and flavorful.
Our favorite entrees were Sole aux Ravioles de Champignon ($20), an example of an elaborately orchestrated dish that one comes to a restaurant for. Comprised of delicate sole over shredded green cabbage with bits of bacon surrounded by an army of tiny mushroom ravioli, it was pulled together by chasseur (hunter’s) sauce, made from mushrooms and wine. Magret de Canard au Cassis ($24), consisting of cooked-to-order sliced duck breast and nicely chopped and shaped confit, aided by potato confit and sweet cassis sauce made with black currants, was a hit. Tatin de Coquille St. Jacques ($24), however, was a bland affair, marred by less-than-fresh scallops and a tangle of julienned vegetables, which made the thin pastry crust underneath soggy. But a simple Hamburger ($13) with crispy French fries is made with sturdy, dense sirloin. Not a bad specimen, but don’t expect a fatty and juicy patty from sirloin.
Desserts are the expected brûlée, mousse and tarts. We attacked the decadent ice cream-filled Profiteroles encased in chocolate ($7), surprised that they didn’t spell out “Cassis.”
