Executive Chef Robert Hesse, returning to his hometown with his “Bi-Coastal Cuisine,” has pulled out almost all the stops at this picture postcard of a country inn. Prices are stratospheric-the average cost of an entrée is over $37-but if not in Quogue Village, then where?

As if to drive that point home, truffles appear everywhere on the menu. What we thought were a pile of French fries, at a nearby table, turned out to be …crispy Truffle Fries ($10). My delicious Potato Wrapped Parisian Sea Bass ($36) had “truffle laced braised leeks” accompanying it.

Nicely prepared Thai Peanut Tempura Shrimp ($24), a spectacular-looking appetizer with three jumbo shrimp, arrives skewered and standing like tent poles. Wild Mushroom Ravioli ($18), another appetizer, is surprisingly hearty, covered with a rich sauce made with cognac crème. As memorable as the salad of Mesclun Greens, Dried Cranberries, Candied Pecans, Gorgonzola ($14) was (and the formidable portion matched the formidable name), I found it a bit too sweet as an appetizer. Pan Seared Maryland Lump Crab Cakes ($18) are perfectly cooked, chock full of meat and subtly seasoned. But coconut “noodles” that came with it are inedible.

Rooms are serenely decorated in the tan/beige/ecru palette, a pleasant modern feel to centuries-old rooms. The bar has comfortable chairs and low tables near a fireplace.

Service does not keep pace with the high bar that the kitchen sets. This is not an unusual occurrence on the East End, where the labor pool tends to be very young and transient.

Food arrives quickly and servers are mostly well-schooled, but water glasses go unfilled for too long. Were we the only table without bottled water? One evening, when the refill finally came, it was headed for a glass of white wine. At this price level silverware needs to be replaced properly and removed before dessert.

But I’ll be thinking about my Panko Crusted Pan Seared Double Veal Chop Paillard ($46) for a long time. Immense and splayed across the plate with the bone jutting out like a handle, the crust was soft and the meat was very tender. It was covered with a bed of arugula and cherry tomatoes with a bit of too-salty balsamic vinegar. Equally good was Sesame Seared Wild Salmon Filet ($36), served in a bowl of sherry vinegar soy ginger sauce.

We loved an over-the-top White Chocolate Raspberry Marbled Cheese Cake ($12), but I was less impressed with the 21 layers of dense, bland Gateau De Crepe ($12).

Quogue Restaurant East is a perfect fit for the neighborhood or as a “daycation” for diners with good credit and immunity to four-dollar gas.