At the 2-month-old The Bravo’s Family Mexican in Hicksville, I was intrigued to find listed in the tiny Honduran Plates section of the menu “Chicken Tacos.” Since they cost almost twice what they get for the authentic Mexican tacos—two for $7 versus $2 each—I knew they had to be a departure from the tacos we all know and love. I’m happy to report they’re as different as noche and dia!
Jenn Richards
These are hardy specimen, made with extra thick house-made flour tortillas, stuffed with shredded chicken, rolled and deep fried like flautas, only much bigger like cannolis. They’re sprinkled with grated queso and plated with a slaw of shredded cabbage and carrots which provides a tangy counterpoint. A tasty and filling revelation with that crunch we all love. Simpler but also impressive are Baleadas ($2.50), like a real Mexican taco, only larger and made with the same large, soft, folded thick tortilla and spread with just refried beans and cheese—it makes for a quick one-handed snack—both items would sweep the nation if they were ever featured in a commercial with a talking Chihuahua.
I searched out more of the same in the brightly painted storefront where Fonda Coyacan once knocked out authentic Mexican plates in Huntington Station. Now, El Picacho Catracho Grill, a Honduran food café, it has a large all-Honduran menu where I found the “Platos Tipicos de Honduras.” I landed on Two Chicken Tacos ($5.50). These are even larger—eight inches long—well stuffed and also covered with a slaw, but this one is warm with jalapeños and a layer of pickled red onions. Enormous, hardy and delicious. The baleadas here get special treatment. The impressive Baleadas Picacho ($3.50) is made with a plate-sized pita-like tortilla folded around big chunks of beef, bits of chorizo and a special blend of eggs, cream, cheese and refried beans. It’s like the best quesadilla ever. Neither The Bravos with its bare bones dining room nor El Picacho Catrucho with its pounding music are very inviting for a sit-down meal, but if you get the tacos to go, you’re well advised to eat them quickly before the slaw makes the taco shells soggy. Or just sit down and do what the natives do and wash ’em down with an ice cold Barena beer.
The Bravo’s Family Mexican
319 Jerusalem Ave., Hicksville
516-390-8899
El Picacho Catracho Grill
1026 New York Ave., Huntington Station
631-683-4224
