Cafe Continental is a cozy, neighborhood Italian restaurant on Northern Boulevard in Manhasset, just next to the Barnes and Noble. It has been owned by the Mariotti family since 1986, and managed by the genial Michael Mariotti beginning in 1999.
There are 17 tables and a very active bar. Dining here is like being at a family get-together, all under the direction of the owner, who seems to know all of the patrons, personally. It’s common for diners to run into old friends. Don’t worry if nobody is familiar to you, the waiters are all personable, without being intrusive.
The cuisine is Northern Italian. This mountainous region is prime cattle country, and it is reflected in the food. So is its closeness to Austria, Switzerland and France. Butter-based sauces, rich with cream, are omnipresent on northern Italian tables. Fresh herbs and garlic help to differentiate the chefs. Stews, soups and veal are popular in this part of Italy.
Cafe Continental identifies itself with the northern regions of Tuscany and Emilia-Romagna, where simplicity is the rule. The quality of the ingredients is more important than fancy preparation. As such, truffles and mushrooms predominate. Cheese is also important, especially parmigiano cheese.
Signature dishes? Mariotti says the osso bucco and veal chops. The specialty pasta is fiori ragu, a flower-shaped pasta with veal sauce. Like all of the pastas here, it is freshly made. Other restaurant-made pastas include pappardelle (a broad, flat pasta noodle), spaghetti, ravioli and gnocchi (a thick, soft pasta).
Branzino is the main fish. Scallops, mussels, Dover sole, tilapia and lobster also are on the menu, all uniquely prepared. On various occasions, I’ve had the littleneck clams, Blue Point oysters and the escargot. All were delectable, with an abundance of snails in the latter dish. The lobster bisque is highly seasoned and actually contains lobster meat (trust me, in many restaurants that’s not the case).
As for veal parmigiana, it is not offered. On request, it will be prepared especially for you. I went that route, and my order was done perfectly, and large enough to enjoy the next day. Mariotti says that the chef can conjure up just about anything you would request. On another occasion, I had lobster fra diavolo, with a spicy marinara, even though it was not on the menu.
When it’s time for dessert, get the tiramisu. It’s the best you will ever taste. This Italian favorite consists of mascarpone, lady fingers, espresso, Kahlua, eggs and shaved cocoa. The recipe is, supposedly, a secret, known only to the proprietor’s mother.
That this is a family business is evident both inside the restaurant and out in the community. Mariotti supports the Manhasset Women’s Coalition Against Breast Cancer, the APS Golf Tournament for Our Wounded Soldiers and Team Katie Oppo for Ovarian Cancer Research. In fact, in June’s Katie Oppo Memorial 5k run, Mariotti was the first across the finish line. There’s an obvious point here about winners.
Cafe Continental is at 1538 Northern Blvd., Manhasset. The phone number is 516-627-4269, and the website is www.cafecontinentalmanhasset.com
Alan Engle lives in Great Neck. Most people eat to live, but Alan lives to eat. Email: editorial@antonnews.com
