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Zox Kitchen: October 2, 2014

Steamed Salmon

Wild versus farmed

Seasonal preferences are often a bone of contention for those who enjoy cooking out of doors. Some of us can only stomach summertime meals like burgers and grilled barbecue. I personally have always enjoyed the fall season with the multicolored landscape and wonderful harvest season. Seafood thrives this time of year as well.

One of the more contentious issues for seafood lovers is the decision to  buy wild as opposed to farm raised fish. One of the key questions is whether farm raised fish are higher in contaminants. It’s not a yes or no answer in most cases. Contaminants like PCBs are much better controlled today in waters where wild fish are caught while genetic modification, or hormones and antibodies are not permitted in the U.S. As the nutritionist and popular blogger Monica Reinagel reports in her blog Nutrition Diva, wild-catch fishing, and setting and enforcing standards protect the marine environment and fish populations. And fish farming is strictly regulated.

But the fundamental concern ought to be where our fish are caught and what regulations are enforced elsewhere. For example, according to Linda O’Dierno, who is an outreach specialist for the National Aquaculture Association, farm-raised fish raised today constitutes 50 percent of the global food fish supply. And most fish consumed in the United States is farm raised. But the U.S. only produces 2.5 percent of that. And fish raised on farms in the States is often more expensive than imported farm-raised fish, which has less stringent regulations.  

Mercury may be the bigger problem especially in wild-caught fish such as swordfish, king mackerel, tile fish, shark and tuna. The most common farm-raised fish are catfish, tilapia, and salmon, all of which have relatively low mercury levels. The results are mixed but the value of eating fish is undeniable. Three decades ago, Dutch researchers followed 872 men aged 40-59 for 20 years and found that those who ate as little as one or two fish meals a week had a 50 percent lower death rate from heart attacks than those who did not eat fish. Other studies show that eating fish delays the onset of Alzheimer’s and dementia. It makes your child healthier and more intelligent. Plus, seafood is low in saturated fat and is high in omega-3 fats.

Fish is healthy for us but some fish is healthier than others. How they are caught and where they are caught makes a difference. It follows that as consumers we must exercise more knowledgeable buying habits than was once thought necessary. Smart phone aps can help us learn about the safety of different species. “Caveat Emptor” or buyer beware becomes more important than ever to our well-being and that of our loved ones. Eating steamed wild salmon seems to be a smart bet for either farm-raised or wild salmon. Mercury is low in both fishing practices. Here’s a recipe that will make the decision a delicious one.

Steamed Salmon, Dill and Ginger With Sauteed Red Chard

Serves 2-4

Salmon Ingredients

• 1 lb. Wild Salmon

• 1/2 bar of unsalted butter (4 ounces)

• 2 inches of fresh ginger, peeled, diced

• 2 tbsp fresh dill, diced

• 1 tbsp dried lemon grass or 2-3 chopped branches

• Juice and zest of one lime

Ingredients For Sauteed Chard

• 2 bunches red chard, remove stems and ribs

• 2 tbsp of extra virgin olive oil

• Juice and zest of 1/2 lemon  

• 1 tsp. toasted sesame oil

• 2 cloves garlic, diced

• 1/4 cup chopped almonds, toasted in a sautée pan for 15-30 seconds.

Directions for Roasted Salmon

1. Rinse the salmon and dry with paper towels

2. Cut the salmon into 4 equal pieces

3. Light your charcoal grill fire and wait until coals are white or until your gas grill is securely lit

4. Lightly season with black pepper on both sides (salt is not necessary)

5. Place the salmon on a large sheet of aluminum foil and season with fresh lemon grass, ginger, 1/2 pat of butter on each piece of salmon, and lime juice and zest. Loosely fold the aluminum foil over the salmon.  Place the dome top over the enclosed salmon and steam for 12 minutes.

6. Remove the  salmon from the grill—unless your guests enjoy rare salmon—otherwise leave enclosed until the chard is sautéed and seasoned.

Directions For Sautéed Chard

1. Rinse the chard leaves, chopped into thirds, and place in  a large, medium heated skillet. Toss the moist chard leaves for 2 minutes until wilted.

2.  Add the olive oil, sesame oil, garlic and lemon juice to the same skillet and turn the chard over with tongs until cooked— about 3 more minutes.

3. Add the lemon juice and toasted, chopped almonds on top of the chard.

4. Plate the cooked chard and almonds on each of your serving plates with one piece of steamed salmon on top and a slice of lemon and another of lime on each piece of steamed salmon.

This recipe gives you an array of different flavors with a crunch to boot. Steaming the salmon as opposed to roasting or frying leaves a smooth, flavorful taste that retains the nutritiousness of the dish. Further, salmon is complemented by the chard, sesame oil and crunchy toasted almonds. The lemon and lime combination enhances the deliciousness of the dish and looks great. Bon Appetit.

Please send comments, questions or observations of interest to Chef Alan at azox@zoxkitchen.com For details about past columns, catering or Chef Zox’s blog, please visit www.zoxkitchen.com