Tucked unassumingly into the flash and glamour of the Gold Coast’s Northern Boulevard is the wildly popular and upscaled, but discreet, Il Mulino Long Island. This restaurant is one of dozens in the brand’s repertoire, a fixture in Roslyn, for nearly 20 years.
The menu, a nod to the Abruzzo region in Italy, just east of Rome, is known for its culinary variety and richness.
The Roslyn location is intimate and cozy, very elegant and has an exclusive feel. The main dining room has approximately 15 tables, but private dining is also available.
To start, keep it simple and choose the Super Toscano wine, a beautiful blend of Merlot, Cabernet and Syrah, while you enjoy a fresh shaving of Parmigano and salami. The bread basket is indeed filled with richness, with a selection of focaccia and gourmet breads like olive, tomato or spicy garlic. The mildly spicy bruschetta is a treat, with its fresh chopped tomato, garlic and onion.
Regular nightly specials are often as tempting to choose from, including the zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta cheese, lightly breaded and then fried. The idea of eating a flower may seem unappealing, but it is virtually tasteless, allowing the rich creaminess of the ricotta cheese filling to take center stage on this appetizer.
If you are in the mood for soup or a hearty starter, try a bowl of the Stracciatella alla Fiorentina ($15), an utra-rich chicken stock, Parmigiano, spinach and eggs for an egg drop consistency.
Choose a pasta dish as an appetizer or entree; it’s good enough to serve both purposes. The Pappardelle alla Bolognese is a generous portion of homemade pasta with blended braised veal and beef in a creamy rich tomato sauce ($33). Do accept the freshly grated Parmigiano cheese on top when offered. It just makes this dish that much better.
The entrees are equally appealing. Try the Pork Chop Milanese, a thinly pounded pork chop, lightly breaded and fried, topped with broccoli rabe and cherry peppers, garlic and onion. Or try the Costoletta di Vitello, a broiled veal chop with a crusted garlic coating, seasoned with fresh sage and served with roasted potato wedges ($58), cooked to order, so perfectly.
Enjoy a complimentary glass of grappa (Italian brandy) with a golden raisin in the bottom of the glass to complete your dining experience along with one of several decadent desserts. Try the flourless chocolate cake, so rich, dense and creamy, or the Italian cheesecake. This cheesecake is not heavy like a traditional cheesecake, definitely creamy with a hint of almond, served with whipped cream and fresh berries.
Each Il Mulino outpost draws inspiration from its geographic location while staying true to the original Il Mulino New York, designed to cultivate the most intimate dining experience. Its world-renowned cuisine is enhanced through attention to detail.
The staff was attentive, friendly and spot-on knowledgeable about the menu and the nightly specials.
Il Mulino, located at 1042 Northern Boulevard in Roslyn, is open seven days a week for dinner; there are lunch hours on Thursdays and Fridays. Valet parking is available at the Roslyn location.
Also available:
• Trattoria Il Mulino-Manhattan, Atlantic City, Orlando and Nashville
• Il Mulino Prime-Soho and Gramercy
• Bistecca by Il Mulino-Mount Pocono
• Il Mulino-Downtown Manhattan, Uptown Manhattan, Long Island Roslyn, Hamptons (Wainscott), Las Vegas, Miami, Boca Raton, Atlantic City and Puerto Rico
Visit www.ilmulino.com/long-island or call 516-621-1870 for more information including menus and reservations.
