By Karen Rubin, Travel Features Syndicate, goingplacesfarandnear.com
Within days of uprooting from downtown Philadelphia and acquiring the 33-acre Annadel Estate Vineyard and Winery in California’s Sonoma wine country, Katie Honey and Dan Whalen found themselves fighting wildfire that threatened to consume the century-old farmhouse and vineyard. For days, they battled the Glass Fire that ultimately destroyed a cottage, structures, melted the vineyard drip lines, and scorched fields. “We fought the fires ourselves,” she relates during our recent wine-tasting tour.
That was 5 years ago, and they have brought their entrepreneurial talent and passion for wine to rebuild, replant and remake the 1880s winery. They restored the vineyard, added a flower farm, orchard and bee hives, and converted the historic structures into an intimate wine-tasting and indoor/outdoor wedding and events venue, as well as making Annadel their family home. Want to feel like a Sonoma local? Annadel even offers a few cozy accommodations where you can stay for a month or more.
With hundreds of wineries and wine-tasting venues throughout Sonoma and Napa valleys, Annadel Estate stands out for its charm and intimacy – and fine wine. Wine-tasting is by reservation only, and limited to six guests at a time, sitting around a table in a small cottage. And so we are buzzed in through a gate and immediately fall under Annadel’s spell.
We are greeted by Katie Honey, the co-owner and entrepreneur with her husband Dan Whalen, who ushers us to a gorgeous table set out with a platter of delectable cheeses, fruits and crackers to complement the four wines we taste.
As we sample the 2023 Reserve Chardonnay, Katie recounts the story of the Annadel Estate Winery – interesting to be sure, but we find how the wine enthusiasts came to be viticulturists even more storied.
Katie, who was born and raised on the prairie of Saskatchewan, Canada to three generations of farmers, brings a professional background consulting on events planning and logistics and Dan, a New Jersey native, runs a tech company. She describes themselves as wine appreciators and passionate gastronomists before they were wine producers. In fact, they are trained sommeliers who would come to Sonoma and Napa three and four times a year for tastings. They even were married here in Sonoma Valley.
Katie and Dan apply their professional backgrounds, their entrepreneurial bent and personal passions, combined with the terroir, history, and classical estate characteristics of the property, to build a sustainable, socially conscious business around creating wines and curating experiences.
They were very familiar with Bordeaux varietals (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Carmenere) and where they wanted to source grapes for the wines they wanted to produce, supplementing their own vineyard production with contracts for blocs at other vineyards.
Business expertise and sustainability are key issues considering Annadel’s long history: the winery was established in 1880 by German immigrants Henry and Anna Bolle. By the late 1880s, the once 545-acre property was producing nearly 50,000 gallons of wine a year, which would equate to a harvest of about 300 tons from 90-acres of vineyards.
Over the 140 years, the Estate has transferred ownership multiple times, been divided and sub-divided into smaller parcels. With Prohibition on the horizon (coinciding with the winery burning down), it ceased being a winery in 1910 and from 1949-1961, was a turkey ranch. Ultimately, with the rise of Sonoma Valley as a premium, world-class wine-producing region, it has been restored to growing grapes and creating wine.
“Sonoma has a perfect climate – warm, dry, hot days, cool evenings and mornings,” Katie tells us, as we savor the 2023 Reserve Chardonnay.
She describes their wine-making style as “Old World” (think Italy and France). They prefer to harvest early, so the grapes have lower sugar, brighter acid, and then age the wine in 100% new French oak barrels “to round out, soften” the flavor.
That’s what I notice in the wines we taste – a rounded, smooth, full flavor.
The 2023 Annadel Estate Reserve Chardonnay we taste is from Gap’s Crown Vineyard grapes.
The tasting notes describe it best: “The nose shows candied ginger, orange blossom, crisp Bartlett pear, and exotic high tones of tuberose. The mouth leads with crunchy green apple, lemon curd, and a whisper of lilac. The mouth is both soft and focused giving length and freshness.”
We thoroughly enjoy the 2022 Reserve Pinot Noir, the grapes from the coveted Durrell Vineyard (the contracts are hard to come by). It is robust, bright, has good balance, a fruit forward flavor. “Bottom of Form
This is a floral wine where you will get wafts of dark cranberry and tart cherry, a fuse of sandalwood with perfume and grace. The mouth is round and bright with red cherry and pipe tobacco which provide a complex and beautiful finish.”
Katie notes simply, “Some pinots can be funky, earthy, but this has a nice profile. It’s not too anything.”
The secret ingredient to Annadel’s success has to be Drew Damskey, their wine maker. Drew’s roots run deep in the Napa and Sonoma vineyards, where three generations of his family has been growing and crafting wines. Drew, who the San Francisco Chronicle named “a Winemaker to Watch”, and earned a coveted place on VinePair’s 50 List which celebrates the professionals who are changing the drinks space, is a partner in Suara Wine Company and serves as a consultant winemaker for several highly sought-after brands including Annadel.
“The same grapes may produce a flavor profile, but the artistic difference comes from the wine master, aging, and oak barrels,” Katie tells us. “Our goal isn’t to taste the same every year. We do what the year gives us.”
We take our glass of 2022 Estate “Chevy B’ Red Blend, with 57% Merlot, as we stroll the vineyards and tour the venues.
Katie remarks that the movie, “Sideways” temporarily tanked the popularity of Merlot because it seemed the lead character didn’t like Merlot, when actually, he was bitter because Merlot is what he would drink with his ex-wife.
But Annadel fashioned their “Chevy B” after the legendary 1961 Chateau Cheval Blanc, from the Saint-Emilion region of Bordeaux, considered one of the greatest wines in Bordeaux history.
So, Katie says with a smile, Annadel’s version is called American ‘Chevy B’ (they couldn’t use ‘Chateau Blanc’), and puts an image of a 1957 Chevy on the label.
The 2022 Estate ‘Chevy B’ Red Blend proves to be my favorite of the four tastings. The tasting notes describe it as “Blueberry pie with warm crust first pop from the glass followed by juicy summer plum, ground clove, and touch of sage. The mouth starts with a little menthol and cigar box, but swings to black cherry, rose, and a hit of game. Wet pea gravel, mixed dark fruit, and dried herbs define the soft yet serious finish.”
We walk through the vineyard. The oldest bloc here is from 1997, most of the vines were planted by 2001; the Pinot Noir vines were planted in 2017. “Old vines,” she says are 30-40 years old.
The grapes are picked at different times – dictated by weather conditions and even forecast.
“Drew, our winemaker, calls the pick, then the grapes go to the crusher.”
It is interesting to learn about some of the intricacies of cultivating the grapes, harvesting, and the practice of “whole cluster fermentation”, where the grapes are left on the stem, then go through a de-stemmer. “It adds more flavor complexity to the wine.”
Annadel continue the tradition of planting roses at the front of the row – the rose plants provide early indication of infestation and disease before the vines show it; also, in the days when livestock was used, the rose bush prevented them from turning too soon and pulling down the post.
“Wine making is so seeped in tradition,” she says.
Every season, every harvest brings its own drama. For example, “If there is frost, you have to immediately call the insurance company.” One such frost hit as Katie was in labor with her daughter.
Their entrepreneurial bent- and strategy to make their business sustainable – supplementing the winery which produces some 1,235 cases of wine – is shown in their flower production – actually restoring a tradition. Annadel Estate Winery has been cultivating species of David Austin roses and hydrangeas since the 1880s. Katie and Dan have since planted three acres of roses and purchased 400-500 new rose bushes, selling to major vendors in San Francisco, and enabling the estate to maintain two fulltime farmworkers.
They also have planted a fruit orchard, olive grove and have their own bee hives.
As we come to the small fruit orchard, we look up at the blackened trees on a hillside just across a road at the edge of their property, and she tells their harrowing story of fighting the Glass Fire. They lost a cottage, some 13,000 sq. ft of structures, and had to replace 200 plants.
But they were able to save the 1900 horse barn, which they converted into a charming indoor venue for weddings and special events; where the original winery stood is now the outdoor venue, with the stone walls as a perimeter. (They provide planners with a list of preferred vendors.)
This part of Annadel’s business is managed by Emily Todd Rodriguez, a wine country native whose background includes a three Michelin star restaurant, The Restaurant at Meadowood, boutique family-owned wine brands like Saintsbury and Amulet Estate, and managing logistics for Napa Valley Vintners events.
Back in the tasting room, we savor Annadel’s 2022 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon: “Sweet dark fruits and pipe tobacco leap out of the glass, blue berry compote and clove emerge, followed by very juicy dark fruit and vanilla. The mouth is juicy and the tannins are supple there is mocha and grilled plum on the finish with soft tannins.”
The personalized, 75-minute wine-tasting experience ($75) is by reservation only and limited to six guests per party, and is what distinguishes Annadel. (Larger groups can be accommodated in the indoor event venue.)
“We emulate what we learned as wine tasters,” Katie says. “We curate the experience – we ask what people want to do.” Because of that, they are particularly family-friendly. (Tastings are offered M-F, 10am – 3pm, S-S: 9am – 2pm).
Has being a producer from a wine connoisseur changed their relationship to wine? “We appreciate it more. Wine doesn’t just grow out of ground.”
The biggest surprise? “Though everyone is in competition, how generous and collaborative the industry is.” This was especially the case after the fire. “People we just met took us into their home.”
Annadel Estate Winery, 125 Cristo Lane, Santa Rosa, CA 95409, 707-537-8007; events 707-584-6816, https://annadelestatewinery.com/shop-our-wine/, info@annadelestatewinery.com, annadelestatewinery.com.
BeautifulPlaces Offers Short-Term Stays at Private Villas for Wine Country’s Harvest Season
Harvest season (August-October) is an exciting time of year in Northern California’s wine country when grapes are picked and crushed, and many wineries celebrate the season with harvest parties, dinners and fun hands-on experiences like grape stomps.
For foodies, the harvest brings extra special culinary experiences as restaurants and private chefs use the bounty of farm-fresh ingredients to create special menus and delicious dishes.
Indulge in wine-themed events in Sonoma in September and October, most notably at the Sonoma County Wine Celebration in September and the Harvest Fair-Taste the Best of Sonoma County. Want to stomp grapes? Check out Napa Valley Vintners’ Harvest Stomp Party on Oct. 4 and Crush Party on Oct. 17.
BeautifulPlaces is a source of villa rentals available for wine-country-themed getaways with onsite vineyards or vineyard views (minimum three-night stay). Visitors can rent villas with vineyards or vineyard views for as few as three nights to partake of wine harvest-related festivities throughout Napa and Sonoma, where there are hundreds of wineries to choose from.
Among them: Casa Sebastiani, historic 6-bedroom Italian villa and homestead of the Sebastiani Family in downtown Sonoma with adjacent vineyards at $1,800/night; Villa Nel Bosco, 3-bedroom Tuscan-style villa on a small vineyard at $1,495/night; Sunset View, 3-bedroom wine country vineyard retreat at $2,100/night; Twilight Ridge, 5-bedroom contemporary home with vineyard at $2,100/night.
When broken down per room, per night, private villa experiences are often more affordable than booking multiple accommodations at a hotel, with the added benefit of living space and kitchen and dining facilities – an ideal option for couples traveling together and multi-generational groups.
Award-winning BeautifulPlaces is a pioneer in hotel-style hospitality and property management in private residences. The company has over 21 years experience in the luxury villa industry in Napa and Sonoma, California and the Virgin Islands, and soon in Santa Barbara, Kauai and Costa Rica.
Visit the BeautifulPlaces website to view villa rental retreats ranging from cozy chic cottages to magnificent hilltop estates, www.beautiful-places.com or call 800-495-9961.
Also, for a limited time, Sonoma County Tourism has a third-night free deal: book two nights at participating properties and your third night is free. (https://www.sonomacounty.com/third-night-free/)
Get more travel planning help from Sonoma County Tourism, 800-576-6662 / 707-522-5800, www.sonomacounty.com
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