Hunter the Restaurant, an innovative bistro offering French and Spanish Mediterranean fare, is putting a sharper spotlight on seafood and updated classics with a newly refreshed menu. Nestled on Northern Boulevard, the sleek but timeless dining room feels like a balance between modern and retro and the food mirrors that mix — rooted in tradition, but prepared with meticulous care.
Chef and owner Hunter Wells, who opened the restaurant in a fully renovated space in 2021, said his approach is simple: honor familiar dishes but prepare them with quality and execution that makes them stand out.
“My dishes can be very overtly classic and sort of done before, but I believe in those combinations,” Wells said. “There’s a reason why certain dishes become timeless. People know them, but when they taste our version, they’re still blown away.”
Appetizers and Seafood Forward
One of the strongest new additions is the seafood salad, a bright, briny starter that sets the tone for the meal. Wells insists on using only fresh calamari, a rarity in many kitchens.
“The only calamari I bring in here is fresh, never frozen,” he said. “It’s a messy process to clean, but when you eat this salad, that’s what gives it that clean taste.”
The salad is rounded out with Spanish octopus and Ecuadorian shrimp, dressed in a lemon vinaigrette made with extra virgin Spanish olive oil. A sprinkle of Espelette pepper from France — a costly, protected regional product — adds subtle heat. Crisp celery and sweet red pepper give it crunch, while a single leaf of Boston Bibb lettuce frames the dish elegantly.
It is a starter that captures Wells’ philosophy: respect the classic form, elevate it through ingredients and surprise diners with depth.
Salad Reimagined
Salads often play a supporting role, but the new wedge salad makes a case as a star in its own right. Made with baby gem lettuce instead of iceberg, it feels more refined while still delivering the familiar bite diners expect. The dressing is built on roasted shallots and European vinegar, with Maytag blue cheese from Iowa crumbled generously across the plate. Thick bacon lends heft and a smoky counterpoint to the cool lettuce.
“This is that classic salad you’re expecting, but it resonates in a way that makes you go, yeah, that’s a wedge salad — but holy smokes, is it really just a wedge salad?” Wells said with a laugh.
It’s a salad that hits every note: savory, creamy, crunchy, fresh. And it reflects his habit of pairing cooked and raw elements for complexity, such as emulsified roasted shallots.
Sesame Encrusted Tuna
Another standout is the sesame encrusted tuna. Typically made with yellowfin, though occasionally swapped for local bluefin, the fish arrives perfectly seared: a charred, nutty crust on the outside, ruby-red within.
The sesame seeds provide texture and depth, almost steak-like in their crust.
“Some people would argue that yellowfin tuna is better seared than bluefin,” Wells explained. “Bluefin is fattier and almost better eaten raw. Yellowfin’s texture makes it more desirable for searing — it’s steaky.”
The dish is served simply, letting the freshness of the fish and the execution of the sear carry it. It’s a dish for seafood lovers, but approachable enough that even a reluctant fish eater might be swayed.
Entrées with Personality
Beyond the new starters, Wells has made subtle but impactful shifts on the entrée side. Veal Parmigiana was replaced with a heritage chicken version that he says is “way better.” Still, he admits he’ll pound out a veal cutlet in the kitchen for guests who insist.
Halibut has also become a signature, with Wells taking unusual care to source only pearlescent, yellow-tinted cuts rather than chalky, post-spawning fish.
“Halibut is one of those fish with huge variance,” he said. “When you get it right, people go crazy because they’ve never had halibut this good anywhere.”
Other entrées lean classic — branzino with sauce vierge, cod with romesco, duck and steak prepared with French technique — but they arrive with polish that makes them memorable.
Atmosphere and Staff
The restaurant’s interior, designed by architecture firm Bentel & Bentel, reflects Wells’ chosen adjectives: timeless, classic, elegant. The result is a space that feels both sleek and warm, with minimalist lines softened by subtle retro touches.
Wells credits his team as much as his design.
“They’re amazing,” he said of his staff. “Everybody in the kitchen respects me; it is mutual. This is very technique-driven food and we do things the right way.” Service in the dining room is attentive but not overbearing, adding to the approachable bistro feel.
Parking and Practicalities
Hunter the Restaurant sits in a convenient plaza on Oyster Bay Road with ample parking, a welcome relief for those who frequent Long Island’s tighter downtowns. The restaurant is open Tuesday through Sunday, with brunch on weekends. A three-course prix fixe menu is available Tuesday through Thursday and also on Sunday for $59 per person, with half-priced bottles of wine on Wednesdays.
For couples, it’s an accessible indulgence — a $100 bottle of wine drops to $50, paired with full-sized courses identical to those on the regular menu.
Final Notes
Hunter the Restaurant succeeds because it doesn’t reinvent the wheel; instead, it polishes the rim. The seafood salad feels like a refreshing start, the wedge salad is comfort food redefined and the sesame tuna is bold but familiar. The entrées, particularly the halibut and chicken Parmigiana, carry the same DNA: food people know, prepared better than they’ve had it elsewhere.
In a dining landscape where “modern” sometimes means complicated or unapproachable, Wells’ East Norwich bistro is confident enough to trust the classics.
“Everything has been done before,” he said. “But it’s the execution that blows people away.”
Parking is plentiful at the shopping complex, including handicapped accessible parking. Access and seating are also ADA-compliant. Located at 1053 Oyster Bay Rd. in East Norwich, Hunter the Restaurant is open Tuesday through Sunday. Reservations are necessary for Friday and Saturday dining.
Visit hunterrestaurant.com or on Instagram (@huntertherestaurant) to check out the menu. Or call 516-624-8330 for reservations.
